Joburg House Music - My 7 Top Tracks You Should Know #Issue1

Before I moved to Johannesburg I was pretty ignorant of quite a few things. Like I didn't know what a tokoloshe was and I wasn't sure what was in the 'monkeygland sauce' (not monkey of course, but still, I wasn't sure). I wasn't a pro on craft beer and I'd never tasted pinotage before. Klipdrift I assumed was a place not a brandy and markets I had always thought were rough and ready places to bargain with traders over the veggies, not fashionable joints to hang out and try gourmet street food at the weekend...

But, worse than all that, the biggest thing I  didn't know about life here was what a huge deal house music is in South Africa. And I mean, really, really huge. Joburg is pretty much at the centre of the South African house music scene and quite frankly house music in South Africa is some of the best in the world right now. Blasting from the cars and getting every party bouncing, house is the sound of the city. Joburg moves, grooves, sasses and defines itself with these rhythms and whatever your class, race, creed or nationality, all are present and welcome in this scene.

Now, even though I probably over-dance to it and consequently look like a dork, I just really love my house music, South African or not. I've tried to keep a track of what's coming out that's cool and my kind of sound ever since I first switched on the radio here and realised everything I was listening to was awesome local produce. And so, a year and half into my new life in South Africa, I present to you (in no particular order) the 7 South African house tracks that you really should know about. 

Here's your playlist:

1. HEAVY K ft MPUMI - WENA
Let's start with an absolute stormer to get you in the right mood. Producer and DJ Heavy K is also known as the Drumboss, which tells you most of what you need to know. The man gets around and his name is on all kinds of hit remixes and his instrumentals are always something else. This tune was an instant killer from the very first time I heard it coming out of some cafe. And that lady, man she is just SO fierce, love her and love this track. Sing it people - weeeeeeeeeeena!

2. MI CASA - JIKA
Mixing a latino and soul edge with smooth house beats and pop sensibility, these Jozi boys are the popular house sound of this city. Everywhere you go, they're either performing live or they're playing on the stereo. Their biggest hit Jika had some incredible radio airtime and even sprouted its own dance move. We've all listened to Jika rather a little too much in the last months, but it's still a definitive sound of Joburg for me so I had to put it on the list - and even just listening to it again now I'm dying to go and chill at some house party. To quote some random from youtube "With this song I feel like I can dance....but I cant, it just makes you wanna dance". I am also totally in love with their latter single Turn you on – so addictive and sexy in just the right kind of classy way. Study the video, learn the simple dance moves and everyone's your friend!

3. DJ KENT FT THE ARROWS – SPIN MY WORLD AROUND
The south Joburg based DJ is a house music king and just keeps putting out hits. You cannot but go crazy for this song, it's catchy, simple and has an ever so sweet little pop tinge to it. Crank it up loud, feel good and dance my friends, there's always a time and place for this kind of song. And what a relief to not have a female vocalist who is not prancing in her bikini all over the video hey? Yup, that's another reason why SA house is cool, the women are being themselves.

4. DJ CLOCKS FT BEATENBERG - PLUTO
Definitely more on the indie-pop side of house music, not sure if this is still even proper house aside from the DJ title on the track...but you know what? That's fine with me. It's upbeat, easy-going and summery. Perfect for a chilled-out sunny Joburg afternoon. 

5. MAFIKOZOLO FT UHURU - KHONA
Mafikozolo are a South African super-group. They formed in the early 1990s and have been chart-toppers for years and despite one of the trio having sadly been murdered in 2004, they've managed to keep on going, making distinctively South African music that the people love and which brings the house down. Their music tends to be a blend of afro-pop and kwaito beats, but with this track they went full on deep house on us. Note the dancing in the video, that's how SA house music makes you move, whoever you are. Random youtube lady was right.

6. BUCIE FT HEAVY K - EASY TO LOVE
Time to introduce Bucie, the Princess of House. Her voice has that rhythm and special edge that just puts you in a place. She's worked with everyone and there's really a lot to choose from, but this is arguably her biggest hit. I've no idea what she says in the hook there (still ignorant foreigner in some things) before 'your so easy to love', but I'll keep pretending to lip synch to it anyway. Note to club fans, the place she leaves at the end of the video is Sway in Sandton!

7. BLACK COFFEE FT TOSHI - BUYA
DJ and music producer, Black Coffee is one of SA's superstar DJs. He keeps the party going on and on and if he's on the decks, well hot damn - you must be at the right kind of party! Usually, being such a big name he's more likely to be playing a festival than a club. If you've made it this far through my playlist, you should be ready for this one. It's not so instantly poptastic dance fest, more a track to remind you that house music can be mellow too. Keeping it real soft, dark and deep this track has a slightly speedier rhythm to it, perfect for those long night drives...and then there's that subtle vocal running through it. Altogether hypnotic.

4 Days in Maputo

We've been talking about visiting Mozambique ever since we first arrived in South Africa. It's only around 5-6 hours drive from Johannesburg, the food is amazing and hey isn't it kind of really cool and exotic to be able to say 'I'm going to Mozambique for the weekend'?! In May we finally hopped in the car and hit the road to Maputo for our anniversary weekend. From the moment we arrived, I knew I would want to return. Maputo is a very special city. I feel very lucky to have been there. I am also dying to go back.

DAY 1

The first day of our trip was mostly taken up with getting there. If you leave before the sun rises you could get to Maputo in time for an afternoon siesta. We left at a human hour and instead arrived just as the sun was setting on Mozambique. As we drove into the city it was clear holiday weekend mood was taking over. On the outskirts of the city hundreds of little wooden kiosks lined the roads for kilometres, blaring music and selling beers and fried foods. People were hanging out chatting, jumping in and out of mini-bus taxis and everyone looked sultry and sexy in their skimpy summer clothing. Just 5 hours from Joburg but in another climatic zone completely. In Maputo it was still summer and tropical. 

After finding somewhere to stay (the Marco Hotel - not the best, but no shortage of rooms) we ventured out for food and beer. Maputo nightlife is really of note and there's always an interesting bar around the corner (my kind of city). A few blocks from the hotel we stumbled upon a public swimming pool which by night functioned as a little bar with nice music, cheap, cheap beers and chilled, friendly Mozambicans. I loved the view over the eclectic city centre architecture from the deck too.

The swimming pool/bar hangout during the day

DAY 2

First things first we found a new place to stay - the PalmeirasGuesthouse. Gorgeous little house with a courtyard serving the most divine breakfasts and right in the heart of the city, just two blocks from Samorra Machel street. Like most places in Maputo it was pricier than expected, but still as far as guesthouses go, it was first rate.

We then ventured off to Catembe for some much needed R & R. A short ferry ride to the other side of Maputo Bay, you land in what is essentially a fishing village. Catembe is only connected to the city by the ferry and so retains a distinctly rural pace and way of life. The beach itself is long but dirty, but that is of little concern when the prawns are this good and cheap! We found the perfect little shack serving big plates of delicious prawns and seriously cold beer, for enviably low prices. Sitting watching the dows come ashore with their nets full of fish against a Maputo skyline backdrop, gorging on seafood and watching the sunset…I can't think of a more perfect afternoon.

Back to Maputo and we hopped a tuk tuk to the guesthouse to change into our best for dinner at one of the city's finest (and most expensive) seafood restaurants Zambi. Unfortunately I didn't take a camera with me so I didn't get photos of the incredible line caught red snapper that we ate, or the mind-blowing langoustine tails which we also indulgently ordered. And even worse I didn't get to capture the random street party going on around the corner either! All along the seafront close to the restaurant people had parked up their cars and were partying. Boots were opened to reveal huge sound systems pounding out r'n'b and latino music, ladies wandered around with crates of cold beer for sale and cocksure youngsters, dressed in their finest were hanging out looking to impress. If you aren't getting the gist already - Maputo is a Party Town.

Just another gorgeous sunset on Maputo bay

After a beer and a stroll we hopped a taxi (helpful option to bypass rogue policemen) up to the Gil Vicente Club. I was a bit perturbed about paying 150 Meticais for entrance, until that is the incredible band - Cheny Wa Gune Quartet, turned up. The band mixes modern and traditional Mozambican sounds and the leader (Cheny) plays the traditional instruments Timbila (kind of giant xylophone) and M'Bira (something like a finger piano?). Watching him play that timbila was particularly mesmerising - the rhythm is played so fast that the hands genuinely remind of hummingbird wings. It was at once joyful and hypnotic. A perfect end to a perfect day. Below is a clip I found on youtube so you can better understand the kind of music we were listening to. I've started following Cheny on facebook, but so far no word on him coming to Joburg...

DAY 3

Day 3 was devoted to exploring the city and doing some informal sightseeing. We visited the CFM (Centre Franco-Mozambique) a buzzing spot round the corner from the guesthouse, which has a cafe, bar, jazz club, art gallery and screens films in its gardens. Do not confuse this with the actual train station (I do concede its very confusing both buildings have the same letters on the front - CFM)  which does not have bars, cafes, shops (as suggested in many articles online) - or trains for that matter - but is very graceful and has been beautifully preserved. We also took in some local markets including the Mercado Centrale (nice food market with great fruit) and generally strolled the streets soaking in the crazy mix of colonial and Soviet-style architecture.

Sculpture at Centro-Franco Mozambique made from old Kalashnikovs. Samorra Machel's statue can just be seen in the back (it stands in front of a government building so you are not allowed to photograph it)

For dinner we ate at the famous Piri Piri restaurant in the Polana district. It was busy and service was pro, but personally I still feel it was over-priced. Garlic prawns were finger-licking good though (garlic prawns are always good). We finished up with a beer at the Pirata Bar and Pizzeria (nice family place, pizzas looked great) and went back to chill in the guesthouse courtyard - the longing to learn Portuguese and relocate to Maputo seriously sinking in by this point.

'the lemon squeezer'

DAY 4

There were two things which we still couldn't leave Maputo without doing (actually there were more but there was no time). One was to buy this most fantastic batik deck chair from the CFM (anniversary present :)

The other was to visit the Nucleo Arts Centre. Had we more energy we would have gone and boozed it up at their awesome little bar the night before, but alas we went sober and enjoyed the art instead. The artists who work in these studios are the real deal and their prices realistically reflect their talents. You can spend anything from $200 to $2000 and next time we come to Maputo that's what I plan to do.

Unfortunately this incredible map of Africa was not for sale :(
Would have struggled to get that in the car anyway I suppose...

Back on the road it seemed to take us about 3 years to get back to Joburg. We got quite aggressively harassed by the Mozambique border traffic police (not nice guys - however having since heard other stories from friends I think we actually got off relatively lightly) and then waited for almost 2 hours to get through the SA border post. From there it was just a long drive in the dark, pushing on back home, thinking - 'boy, we spent some amount of money there!' And 'please - when can we go back!'
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GOOD TO KNOW IF YOU VISIT MAPUTO:

POLICE: Police in Maputo are thoroughly corrupt - even by local standards they are in a league of their own. Their scheme is to 'fine' anyone who does not carry their passport, no warnings, straight to the wallet. If you do carry your passport then they are likely to take it, find a problem with it and demand a fine before giving it back, so there's no way to win. And threatening to put you in the local jail is also part of the rigmarole. The whole situation is really annoying so avoid police as much as you can. Especially at night when they really get feisty. Maputo is safe enough to walk around after dark, but still it will ultimately turn out cheaper and easier to take tuk tuks/taxis late at night so as to avoid the police shake down (night time is when they really try to nail you, knowing there are less people around to spot them doing it).
The traffic police for their part are super strict, but don't tend to try and scam you for nothing. If there is a problem though they will get very aggro with you and can be nasty. If you do not have an 'international driver's license' - get one, it's one of the things they have very strong feelings about.

VISAS: South Africans do not need a visa to visit Mozambique. Most other nationalities do though. Mozambican visas cost R800 (ouch!) to make at the border and the process takes about 10-15mins. You can have the visa for a month. Multiple Entry costs more.

MALARIA: Mozambique is malarial. We didn't take any anti-malarials and risked it just by putting on loads of anti-mozzie spray (it was autumn...). I got bitten twice, John not at all. Luckily I have not since contracted malaria. However, visiting malarial areas and not taking medication is your own risk and I am not going to advise either way.

A Karoo Wedding

Shortly after we arrived in Brandvlei, Northern Cape (aka Middle of Nowhere, see previous post) the beers were cracked open, the cooler boxes piled up and a little bus came to collect us all and drive us 45km out of town to the bride's farm for a pre-wedding braai.

A Karoo lamb braai under the stars

After driving 1,200km-plus from Johannesburg we were all full of beans and having a great laugh as the bus chugged up the road. Lucky for us some other guests were trailing us in a car and noticed when about 20km out of town our bus spectacularly bust a tyre. We all piled out to look at the damage, thinking we'd just do a quick tyre change and be on our way. Then we saw this, were happy all passengers were intact, rescued the beers from the bus and set ourselves up at the side of the road to watch the sunset and wait for rescue.

An hour later and we were at the farm. The stars were coming out (just spectacular) and the massive braai was well under way. It goes without saying that we ate lamb that night (Renee's family sacrificed a lot of their animals for our enjoyment – this was as fresh as it gets!) and it was amongst the tastiest things I have ever eaten in my life. Seriously, they really know what they are doing in this part of the world when it comes to lamb.

A wedding in Afrikaans

Given that Brandvlei is one of the hottest places in the country, the wedding wasn't set to start until 15:00. Even then though the last few hours before the sun began to set were still uncomfortably hot for the un-aclimatised like us. It was not difficult to spot those of us who had never been to a rural Afrikaans wedding before. Tip for the future: you don't need to wear a tie for this kind of event - in fact suits are not really expected either. But still, what true Scotsman would attend a big wedding and not wear his kilt? If you're going to travel all this way for a wedding, you may as well bring a bit of your culture with you :)

Following a short and very sweet ceremony in the church, we all wandered over to the village hall next door to rest in the shade and listen to some music. The happy couple's talented friends played for us as we sat under a very attractive awning, munching biltong, karoo cheddar (aw man, so good) and sipping homemade ginger beer. 

Almost everyone who lives in this village (which I'm told has around 30 families in it - although somebody else told me it was actually 13) seemed to be in someway involved in this event. Whether it was driving the bus for the guests, serving the meal, butchering the meat, or giving up spare beds in their homes for guests. And you just know you're really in a small town  when the blokes running the sound system are actually travelling mechanics from a village 250kms away whose main job is traversing the Karoo fixing wind pumps and when the guy running the hotel (and the village bar) has turned up to be a bartender at the wedding too.

Finally the sun went down and the heat went back to bearable (in the mid-20s) and we made our way to our tables for speeches and food. Another notable meal, this time cooked by Brandvlei's very own Masterchef finalist (true story!) and great wine. Also check out what they did with the table decorations  - so pretty.

Then came the speeches, which were all in Afrikaans. There was an order to it (but I can't really remember) and at some point the groom got up to speak. Suddenly every young man in the room picked up his chair and moved over to surround the poor fella. They then proceeded to heckle him mercilessly and throw things. This situation totally flummoxed me until someone finally explained that that is actually just part of Afrikaans tradition. Who knew??!

After the food and the speeches of course came the dancing. The couple had specifically chosen a playlist filled with fun rock and pop songs of a more international variety (think AC/DC, Michael Jackson, James etc), but that didn't stop anybody from engaging in another amusing (for me) Afrikaans tradition. It's called sockies. It looks like a kind of ballroom waltz, and everyone was doing it. Learnt a lot of new stuff at this wedding for sure!

We stayed til the end of the party, dancing, drinking, chatting and making new friends. It was totally worth travelling all the way to be part of this very special occasion and without question, it really was the ultimate way to discover what Northern Cape culture is all about. And - I now know what the Afrikaans word gramadoelas really means :)

The Road to Brandvlei - our great Karoo adventure

This March we were very lucky to be invited to a friend's wedding here in South Africa. The lovely bride comes from a tiny little village in the middle of the Northern Cape called Brandvlei. Even by Northern Cape standards this town is really tiny and remote, located right in the middle of the Tankwa-Namakwa desert and about 150km from the nearest town (which is another equally small village). It would be at least 1,200km journey from Johannesburg to get to Brandvlei (taking in some sights on the way), a one-of-a-kind road trip with a really good party at the end of it. How could we say no?!

Sunset on the road to Kimberley

Johannesburg to Kimberley

The first stretch of road was the N12 to Kimberely which passes all the way through the Free State. There isn't much of interest to see on the way and you can drive it in about 5 hours (with a stop for coffee). We spent our first night of the road trip in Kimberley, capital of the Northern Cape and a city most famous for its diamonds.

Kimberley was the first real diamond-rush town in South Africa and within just a few years in the 19th Century this hot and dusty town became the biggest settlement in South Africa (before of course they discovered the biggest Gold Reef in the world in Gauteng and Jozi stole the title). As you can imagine the city's most famous attraction is the mine. The Big Hole as they like to call it, is the biggest mine dug without the use of heavy machinery in the world. It's pretty crazy. The Big Hole has a big museum attached to it (pretty good actually) as well as one of those quaint recreations of an old mining town (I have to admit I do like that sort of thing).

Besides the Big Hole, there's not a huge amount to do in Kimberley so we spent the rest of our time chilling in the courtyard of The Halfway House (one of the oldest pubs in town) and lounging around at our beautiful guesthouse (75 on Milner – highly, highly recommended) and generally recovering from the at times terrifying drive through the Free State (word to the wise: do not drive the road around Potchefstroom in the dark, it's a death trap!).

Kimberley to Augrabie Falls

For the next leg of our trip we crossed the Karoo and drove up to the border with Namibia to see the Augrabie (pronounced O-khrabie) Falls, one of the biggest waterfalls in Southern Africa. The Karoo desert was a lot greener looking than I expected, but still very much a desert nevertheless. As we crossed up to the northern border of South Africa our road began to follow the Orange River. Around this part of the country it is noticeably greener. The river is tapped to irrigate vineyards which produce wine and raisins and when you are right next to the river it looks almost tropical.

A quick stop for lunch at the Irish Pub in by far the biggest town around here, Upington, and we continued on our way. We didn't make it to the falls that night and instead slept at a very posh hotel in Kakamas, a reasonably sized (for the Northern Cape) town which relies heavily on grape farming to sustain the community.

A rainbow in the Karoo - unexpected!

The next morning we headed off to check out the waterfall, which by this point was in full flow after particularly heavy rains further up the river. It was seriously impressive and awe-inspiring. All around this area for hundreds of kilometres you just have heat and silence, then suddenly bam 'the Great Noise'. It was also probably the hottest place I've ever been to in my life – 38 degrees C (unimaginable heat!). There are no clouds and no shade and the rocks reflect the blazing sun right back at you like an oven. The kind of place where you could fry an egg on the ground (seriously).

Augrabies to Brandvlei

In the last stretch of our journey, a mere 300kms, we crossed over into the Tankwa desert (or Namakwa as the sign had it, I'm still not sure which it is really, the locals don't seem to agree on it). This place was seriously desolate and remote. Between us and Brandvlei was just one tiny town, at least 120kms down the road. The heat was insane and the land spreads out so far and wide and flat with absolutely no buildings or structures it almost reminds you of the sea. And it's just a long straight road for several hundred kilometres.

The last town we passed through before Brandvlei was Kenhardt. I think they have some kind of spring there as it was a lot greener than dry and dusty Brandvlei. This part of the world is famous for its Paadstalls (kind of roadside farm shops/snack stops), the one in Kenhardt was particularly nice. 

This area is also famous for these crazy trees, Quiver Trees. They are so called because the San bushmen used to use the branches to make quivers for their arrows. The trunks are so solid they actually feel like stone and these big tree-like things are in fact succulents (which is evident from their 'leafs'). They take a long time to grow and are quite rare and only in this part of the country are they really thriving.

Finally at around 3pm we rolled into town. Brandvlei is only about 10 streets by 5 streets big and has one hotel, which we of course were all staying in. The less said about the Hotel Brandvlei the better. Never in my life have I been so harassed at night by mosquitoes (mosquitoes in the desert, WTF?!) and the security was quite hilarious (padlock for when you leave, chair pushed up against the door for when you sleep)...But hey, we made it, we were in the true Middle of Nowhere, we wouldn't be driving tomorrow and the next few days were going to be amazing. To be continued...