Gerald
is a bubbly Johannesburg tour guide, who has also written a popular
book detailing all the best that the city has to offer called JoburgPlaces. Gerald had the genius idea of combining drinking with touring
the city centre and after a tough few days of moving chaos we
certainly needed those beers.
Unfortunately
due to a long and tortuous morning of getting involved in something
we hadn't really thought we had signed up for (we were just trying to
make the TV work, we ended up with a satellite...) we missed the
start of the tour.
Here's
where we went (excluding a bar in a gold vault in the Mapungubwe
Hotel and Darkie Cafe which is opposite it). Note we travelled around in a mini-bus. According to Gerald it is now safe to walk in the CBD after dark, but it is not safe to cross the bridges:
Guildhall
Pub
Corner
Market and Harrison Street
Downstairs at the Guildhall |
Reputedly
the oldest pub in the city, the Guildhall first opened in 1888. The
bar itself and the panelling surrounding it is all around 100 years
old, while the building's facade, including a wrought iron balcony,
is also an important historic relic of old Joburg.
We sat
up on the balcony overlooking the library square and the Nelson
Mandela Building (the place were Madiba first got a job as a legal
clerk at a Jewish firm). Most of the locals tend to sit downstairs at
the bar. I've actually popped by here before whilst strolling the
inner-city and can confirm that it's got a proper bar buzz in the
post-work hours, is safe and the owner is lovely. There's also
karaoke on Thursdays (I haven't been...yet).
I read that back in the 1970s the Guildhall was the bar of choice for
foreign correspondents working in the city. It was reputedly a bit rough at
the edges, but an essential venue for journalists getting their teeth
into reporting the madness of apartheid and swapping war stories. How things change.
This is
a lovely business hotel, with outstanding staff, very close to the
main mining headquarters (hence the name). The restaurant on ground
level does an excellent lunch buffet deal on weekdays for local
office workers. Meanwhile upstairs there's a very respected gourmet
restaurant where they train youngsters from poor backgrounds to become top chefs.
We headed all the way up to the roof (currently only open for private parties) for our drinks. The views from up there are incredible. Hopefully they will open it up soon as a proper bar. It is seriously one of the best 'sundowner' locations in Johannesburg.
We headed all the way up to the roof (currently only open for private parties) for our drinks. The views from up there are incredible. Hopefully they will open it up soon as a proper bar. It is seriously one of the best 'sundowner' locations in Johannesburg.
6 De
Beer Street
After
picking up my poor husband (who had only just escaped the TV fiasco)
we went to Great Dane, a very popular student joint in
Braamfontein. It is next to Kitcheners which is probably my favourite
bar in Joburg right now and has a similar crowd. The Dane was
absolutely packed and everyone was dancing to Cee Cee Peniston's 90s
house hit Finally, even though it was only 7pm. A proper party place
filled with outrageously hip looking African students.
120 De
Korte Street
For our
final drinks gazing out over the lights of Saturday night Hillbrow, we went to the roof of the Protea Parktonian Hotel in
Braamfontein. Again I think this place is only open for guests and
private parties and again they are really missing a trick.
As this
was our final destination we all had a Springbok shot (mint liqueur
and kahlua) and listened with amazement as Gerald explained to us the
ins and outs of how downtown Johannesburg fell into decline
and why business and upmarket living is now spread across the
'northern suburbs' instead. I'm not going to go into the whole
incredible story here, but in a nutshell - this city is changing all
the time, and in the CBD things right now are only changing for the
better.
It let's me wish I could fly...,
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